For this Thanksgiving edition, I’ve asked my friend and fellow PCV Phil to write a guest blog post. Enjoy his post and my pictures to accompany his writing 🙂 – Rawan
Let me tell you about PC Georgia G16 Extension to the Next Dimension Friendsgiving 2018 Rach’ Out with your Crotch Out, our snowy northbound excursion! Do you want to hear about our marshutka struggling up a craggy mountainside? Battening down the hatches against the frosty weather with a village host as we share the latest news, cooking local fowl and transplanting our American holiday customs into the far-flung and hoary Caucuses?
Couldn’t find a place to do it.
All the G16 Extended (3rd Year) Peace Corps Volunteers, from left to right: Ainsley, Justin, Phil, Susan, and Rawan
Winter excursion season usually starts December 8th when the skiing opens, but we can’t help it. Our schedule is what it is. We tried booking three different places through Airbnb in Oni, Nikortsminda, and, forgoing Racha altogether, Bakuriani to the south. In all three instances we learned a day after booking that the host either wasn’t checking their email, had booked another guest without taking down their posting, or hadn’t gotten their pad functional yet, sincerest-apologies-come back-next-week.
Booking.com found us an apartment in the center of Bakuriani, and then the evening before we were due there our man called to say that there was no water at his digs. “That gonna be a problem?”
Like Jonah in the belly of the whale, we can take a hint. So, we stayed put in Rawan and Justin’s home and cooked a Thanksgiving spread so lavish it shames us. Orange chicken; mashed potatoes; pumpkin gnocchi; butternut squash soup; stuffing; glazed carrots; gravy; and brownies.
Croutons, Butternut Squash Soup, Mashed Potatoes, Justin’s Orange Chicken, Gravy, Glazed Carrots, Pumpkin Gnocchi, two sets of Brownies, Stuffing, Apple Crumble, and Rice!
Thanksgiving is a good time to put aside this jocular self-pity and acknowledge that we as Americans and Peace Corps Volunteers have oodles to be thankful for. I’m sure if our stateside countrymen knew what a blast the Peace Corps is, they’d run – not walk – to sign up, leaving their front doors open and the kettle still on.
Every day we get to partner with those Georgians who are doing the essential work of developing their country and its institutions. All the while we upload into our consciousness several lifetimes’ worth of lessons, inspiration and formative experience that we shall not fully grasp and appreciate until years down the road.
Georgia is a fascinating country with rare natural beauty and extremely likable people. We are fortunate to work and live in such a place, and that we have this time to explore it together.
For explore we did, albeit in shorter range than intended. After sleeping off the chow, Saturday we ventured a short way uphill to see the historical double-act of Motsameta and Gelati Monasteries.
Crashing a wedding (or five) at Motsameta!
Motsameta sits atop a cliff jutting out over a gorge, dropping on three sides, with a fine view of the Tskaltsitela River below. The church contains a shrine to the bones of two 8th century Georgian martyrs, the brothers Davit and Konstantin Mkheidze, local dukes who were tortured and executed by Muslim invaders for refusing to convert. There were several weddings in progress when we visited, and while we waited to enter the chapel where the ceremonies were underway and the holy relics housed, we played with the monks’ well, into which visitors had thrown coins despite an injunction not to do so.
Gelati
Gelati was less crowded and under construction. It was founded in 1106 by David IV, known by the epithet Aghmashenebeli – “The Builder”. He is a heroic figure in Georgian medieval history, under whose reign Georgia came to dominate the Caucasus. He is buried at this site under a gate stripped as a prize from the city of Ganja in Azerbaijan by David’s son Demetrius.
Courtyard of Gelati
We capped off the evening at the old PCV-standby Praha, to show our eastern companion some damn fine bean-bread. It is a testament to the excellence and quality-depth of our post that even when Plans A-through-D disintegrate, E, F, G, and H satisfy. Count your blessings and Happy Thanksgiving!
My friend Sarah visited Justin and I last month during the Georgian Easter holidays. I thought it would be more interesting to get her perspective and post it on the blog. Enjoy our first guest writer on our blog! – Rawan
I landed in Georgia around 4 A.M. to visit Rawan, thinking, “Alright, whatever happens next is all part of the adventure.” This trip abroad had been the first that I had entirely planned solely by myself, no parents to guide me or hold my hand. The focus and intention I had for myself were to have an experience that would help me learn and grow as an adult.
Seeing Rawan at the airport, excitedly waving with both hands, is a moment I hold dearly. We were both so happy to see each other after a year. Rawan and I had both worked at EMC for different departments and surprisingly, we did not meet at work. Telling people our story how we met is a little embarrassing but also funny from my perspective. The way Rawan’s husband puts it is, “I was out with my buddy having a beer, Rawan had her friend for a drink, and Sarah was out drinking with her dad.” I think the way he put it was the funniest, but really the awkward part was that my dad was hitting on Rawan’s friend. I didn’t think I could make such lasting friendships from it but look where we are now.
Honestly, I was so relieved to see Rawan at the airport. Everyone was so worried about me going to Georgia, a former Soviet Union territory. My parents, colleagues, friends had their own ideas and thoughts of me traveling to the country. I had also planned a trip alone to Berlin after Georgia so that added more concern and worriedness.
My first night in Georgia, Rawan, Justin, their friend Kate (another PCV), and I stayed at one of the nicest hostels in Tbilisi. I loved standing on the roof patio that overlooked the historical city, up close I could see the cobblestones in the old town and from afar I could see beautiful Cathedrals.
Rawan and I standing on the Envoy Hostel’s patio overlooking Old Tbilisi
The day spent in Tbilisi was calming and I hadn’t been feeling so jetlagged. I really enjoyed sightseeing, going under the Bridge of Peace, seeing the Mother of Georgia statue, and walking around the Sulfur Bath area. We only needed a half day to see everything and this is something Rawan told me prior to arriving in Georgia.
Rawan, Justin, Kate, and I on the Bridge of Peace
As she puts it something along the lines of “Georgia is really pretty and we’ll get to see things but you’ll really be coming to hang out with me.” Rawan told me a lot of things, she was good with giving me a lot of information before the trip but nothing really clicked with me until I arrived in Georgia for the full ride. I loved it though, how often could someone say they got to visit Georgia and catch a glimpse of the Peace Corp life for a few days. Rawan and Justin had to commit to two years as a volunteer and I was able to come see their lives after a year of their service and gather their thoughts and emotions.
Our view from the cable car to see the Mother of Georgia Statue.
The plan was to leave Tbilisi after half the day which felt like a week because we were non stop moving. I took my first marshrutka, bus transportation, to Rawan’s host family to spend the night. We used these long rides to catch up. We spoke some Arabic with each other. She told me of how she works for World Vision and Justin is a teacher. They were impacting the world for the greater good but life wasn’t necessarily easy. Rawan wanted me to see the real side of the Peace Corps life. We may laugh now but this is when I started to see a whole different side to Georgia like I was going back in time and things no longer were luxurious.
Rawan’s host family did not speak English but I was more shocked at how well Rawan and Justin could communicate with their host family in Georgian. In roughly a year, with 3 months of heavy Peace Corps training, she could speak better Georgian than I could speak Spanish…and I took Spanish classes for seven years. The house was small but filled with people. The grandmother was a sweetheart; she gave us a tour of the house, first to the pigs which freaked me out!
Rawan and Justin’s PST Host family’s chicken coop
The huge pigs smelled so bad and the best part, right across from the chicken coup, Rawan opened the outhouse door. Conveniently, I had to pee and when Rawan told me to go in, we laugh now, but I had this horrific look and just shook my head saying I can’t. Rawan literally pushed me in and shut the door and she was coaching me through. “Put your feet on the two blocks and just squat down” and lucky me realized mid pee that there’s no toilet paper. “Rawan, there’s no toilet paper!” “Just shake it off, shake it off.” What else was I supposed to do? So I jumped out feeling disgusted with myself and Rawan sees her host mom coming back with toilet paper and she tries pushing me and telling me to go back inside. Rawan asked me what I did and I
Rawan asked me what I did and I said “you told me to shake it off!” That was the funniest moment and we couldn’t stop laughing afterwards. In the moment was funny too but really I wanted to give Rawan a hard time. I had asked Rawan afterwards, “You really wanted me to struggle huh?” Her response, “Kind of…I also thought this would be a great bonding experience and you would really understand what I went through and the life of Peace Corps.” This was all out of love. We joked and laughed, and we got frustrated. Basically, there were highs and lows but it was just the nature of Peace Corps. It’s not easy.
At her host family, the house was so cold I wanted to cry. Her host mom saw me shivering and she offered to turn on the heat before bed so that I could be warm. Rawan said I was lucky because when she lived with them while she was going through PC training, there was no heater. I was a little embarrassed but I had to politely accept the offer. Rawan told me I was doing great, better than most people had done in PC in their first week. I didn’t believe her. I told her that I felt like I was being high maintenance. She reassured me that I was doing great and I really appreciated that. She had been there for almost a year now and these obstacles she had already faced long before I came to visit.
Rawan gave me a heads up that most likely I wouldn’t be taking a shower in the next few days or until I would get to Berlin. I said okay, these were the circumstances and sometimes you just have to learn how to deal. I’ve gone through a few similar situations and even though it wasn’t as rough as the Peace Corps, it helped me get through. In Lebanon, the electricity would go out at least 5 times in a day and you’d have to manage. I wasn’t ever one to complain but things like this can be stressors and it could be frustrating. Rawan had a sense of calmness and I told her that she had calmed down since EMC. Even though I know sometimes things got to her, she told me that Peace Corp tame the Type A personality. I remember we were in a Marshrutka and I had bought a homemade Churchkhela, a traditional Georgian candy, and I broke off a piece which ended up having hair in it. I put it back in the bag as if I was about to throw it away and
I remember we were in a Marshrutka and I had bought a homemade Churchkhela, a traditional Georgian candy, and I broke off a piece which ended up having hair in it. I put it back in the bag as if I was about to throw it away and Rawan stopped me. She couldn’t believe I was about to throw away a good piece of candy, if only I just removed the hair. I said, wow Rawan, you really did change in a joking matter. Rawan and I used to have lunch every day at EMC and she always made sure to use hand sanitizer. I liked how Rawan handled things and really made the best of her situation. She loved the Peace Corps, she said it was the best job she’s ever had and that’s what got her through tough times, reminding herself that.
I remember we were on another Marshrutka and the driver refused to return Rawan the correct amount of Laris, their money exchange. I think the driver stole about 6 Laris, about 3 USD. I hadn’t ever seen Rawan so upset and I remember her saying that she didn’t want to dwell on those moments because it would take away her love for the Peace Corps. I was really proud of her at that moment.
It was the little things. We went to Gori, where Stalin was born and raised, we saw his house, and did a little shopping. I bought Rawan a scarf that she liked and she was so appreciative of this gesture. I love that. We traveled with a group of Peace Corp volunteers to Vardzia, a monastery cave in Southern Georgia, very close to the Turkey border. Everyone was so nice and welcoming; everyone from the PC volunteers to the Georgian people, I felt so safe and comforted. We were on another Marshrutka and this young boy sitting behind us was talking to us and telling Rawan that she’s beautiful and he hands us two red eggs, an Easter tradition, and we gave him a lollipop. This special moment made our hearts melt.
Vardzia (photo credit: Christy W., current Peace Corps Volunteer Georgia)
Ups and downs, highs and lows are all part of life. I came to Georgia from Berlin and could see the change in scenery like night and day. Everyone lives different lives but we all go through things and have our own story to tell. I missed my flight back home from Georgia and I thought it was the end of the world. Rawan was there to comfort me, Rawan had PC duty, but she made sure I had the best company all day and I really did. I spent the day with a PC volunteer, Emily, who was the sweetest.
I had a mission and a purpose for this trip. I learned, laughed, experienced things, and grew as a person. I loved my trip, from start to finish. I faced challenges that I had never faced before. I got upset one day, I was overwhelmed and fatigued. I couldn’t put it into words how I was feeling but I had Rawan their understanding me. I had a lifelong friend and memory I will hold eternally. I’m so happy I got an in depth understanding of the Peace Corps life and I can’t thank Rawan enough for introducing me to all her PC friends, putting me first and making sure I was doing okay, planning the week trip, and positively reinforcing me every day. The times Rawan and I laughed together, communicated through an obstacle we were facing, or even just got excited over a new scarf, I hold those moments tightly because those small things were the greatest part of this learning experience after all.
